GUINNCHILAR KENNELS” PUPPY LOVE
PET CARE STARTER PACK
Bringing your new member of the family home is an exciting time. Many things are going to be different for both you and your little one.
I still remember the day I brought my first one home, and how I had so many question because I wanted the best for my little fur babe. So I have put together some information I have learned from my own experiences.
I hope you enjoy what you are about to read, and find it a helpful tool to raising your new family member.
The Developing Puppy
The puppy stage sets the foundation for a dog's whole life. During this time, puppies undergo rapid physical development including:
• Bones and joints growing to full size.
• Muscles developing and growing.
• Internal organs growing (this continues even after
your dog appears to be full size).
• Immune system developing and learning to protect
• Cognitive development and brain growth.
Puppy nutritional needs
Nutrition is crucial to support this level of development and a healthy diet should include:
• Protein: As a key building block of muscle, skin, coat,
organs and other tissues, a puppy will need
abundant protein during this period of growth.
• Calcium and Phosphorus: These are necessary
ingredients for healthy bones and teeth and must be present in the correct ratios to grow bones and teeth correctly.
• Omega Fatty Acids including Linoleic acid: This provides complete and balanced nutrition, promotes a healthy immune system and helps keep your puppy's skin and coat healthy.
DO's & DON'T's
- Do follow the puppy feeding guidelines for the age of your pup. One of the worst things you can do is allow your puppy to become overweight, which has serious health implications.
- Do feed your puppy at the same times every day and develop a routine.
- Don’t feed your puppy from the table. This adds calories and unneeded fat to a dog’s diet and can also make your puppy a fussy eater.
- Don’t forget your Pup is not a human.
* Chocolate and Caffeine
It’s a pretty well-known fact that chocolate is harmful to dogs. Unlike their feline friends, most dogs don’t have an “off” button when it comes to finding food. The amount and type of chocolate your dog consumes determines the symptoms and toxicity level he will experience. Symptoms can include vomiting, diarrhea, increased thirst, abdominal discomfort, lethargy, muscle tremors, irregular heartbeat, high body temperature, seizures and death. The darker the chocolate is (for instance, baker’s chocolate or cocoa powder), the more dangerous it is to your puppy. They contain a higher concentration of caffeine and the obromine, both of which cause toxicoses in dogs. Keep your dog away from caffeinated beverages as well. Learn more about the dangers of your dog consuming chocolate here.
* Grapes andRaisins
While grapes and raisins are not harmful to some dogs, they have been associated with kidney failure in others. Simply put, it’s not worth the risk to find out! Vomiting, lethargy and diarrhea can occur within 12 hours of ingestion. If the symptoms are not treated, they can lead to dehydration, decreased appetite and increased urination followed by decreased urination. If your dog has consumed grapes or raisins and these signs occur, take her to a vet immediately. Your dog can develop long-term kidney disease or even die from kidney failure within three to four days.
* Alcohol and Raw Bread Dough
Small amounts of alcohol found in drinks, syrups and raw bread dough can be poisonous to dogs. These products contain ethanol, and beer also contains hops, both of which can cause alcohol intoxication. Signs of intoxication include vomiting, disorientation, high body temperature, restlessness, excessive panting, muscle tremors and seizures. Dogs who show signs of alcohol intoxication should be monitored by a vet until they recover, as it can cause failure of the organ systems and even death. The yeast in raw bread dough can also cause stomach expansion, which can result in tissue damage and difficulty breathing
Dairy products can upset your dog’s digestive system and cause diarrhea as well as food allergies. Ingestion of just a few macadamia nuts can cause weakness, paralysis and lack of coordination. Avocados contain persin, which can cause mild stomach upset in dogs. The bones in meat, chicken and fish can also be very hazardous to your dog. They can splinter and stick in the throat, break teeth or cut the intestines.
If you are unsure if you can feed a food to your dog, always consult your veterinarian first. As a general rule of thumb it is best to avoid feeding your dog human food anyways. While it can be hard to ignore those puppy dog eyes looking at you at the dinner table, feeding your dog can often result in weight gain among other more serious issues. To keep your dog out of harm’s way, it is best to stick to a diet of food specifically formulated to meet your dog’s nutritional needs.
Xylitol is an artificial sweetener found in foods like sugarless gum, sugar- free candy and baked goods. It can also be found in toothpaste, mouthwash, chewable vitamins and cough drops. Ingestion can cause a life-threatening drop in your dog’s blood sugar, as well as liver damage. Symptoms include vomiting, seizures and loss of coordination, which can occur anywhere from a few minutes to several hours after ingestion. According to the Pet Poison Helpline, a 10-pound dog would only need to eat a single piece of sugar-free gum to reach a potentially toxic dose. Dogs that ingest large amounts of xylitol can also develop liver failure. If you suspect that your dog has consumed anything that might contain Xylitol it is important that you contact your vet immediately.
* Onions and Garlic
Anything in the onion family–from garlic to shallots to scallions to chives–is toxic to dogs. They contain compounds that can cause gastroenteritis, anemia and serious damage to the red blood cells. Garlic is considered to be five times as potent as onions. Signs of onion or garlic poisoning often do not appear for several days after ingestion, but include lethargy, weakness and orange- to dark red-tinged urine. Japanese breeds of dogs such as Akitas and Shiba Inus tend to be more sensitive to garlic and onions.
* Other Foods Harmful to Dogs
Dairy products can upset your dog’s digestive system and cause diarrhea as well as food allergies. Ingestion of just a few macadamia nuts can cause weakness, paralysis and lack of coordination. Avocados contain persin, which can cause mild stomach upset in dogs. The bones in meat, chicken and fish can also be very hazardous to your dog. They can splinter and stick in the throat, break teeth or cut the intestines.If you are unsure if you can feed a food to your dog, always consult your veterinarian first. As a general rule of thumb it is best to avoid feeding your dog human food anyways. While it can be hard to ignore those puppy dog eyes looking at you at the dinner table, feeding your dog can often result in weight gain among other more serious issues. To keep your dog out of harm’s way, it is best to stick to a diet of food specifically formulated to meet your dog’s nutritional needs.
Healthy Parent’s means Healthy Pup’s
Good nutrition start for me even before your pup is born. I feed both parents on good quality food high in Protein and Calcium. It is my believed if you start with health breeding parents then the pups will have the best start in development and nutrition I can give them.
The parents are feed on Advance Puppy Plus Rehydratable for Small Breed. For the mother this continues not only before but also during and after the pregnancy.
At 5 weeks old :-
Your little fur babe has been on Advance Puppy Plus Rehydratable from the time I start her on solids. It is softened at that time with warm puppy milk, and this becomes their first soft food.
Once their have advanced to eating dry food, I then like to also include in their diet, V.I.P Natures Goodness Gourmet Chicken/ Veggies/Rice. ( Chicken because chicken is the easiest meat for puppies to digested) This is a holistic balanced formulation, that is high in protein, has no artificial flavours, colours or preservatives, and is made from a real meat recipe that is naturally good for your pup and it is all Australian owned which I love.
At 10weeks old :-
Purina Supercoat Puppy with Real Chicken for Small Breeds, is leave out for them to graze on during the day.
Always have Fresh Water available at all times.The nighttime meal is a mixture of - 2 desert spoons of Advance Puppy Plus Rehydratable, plus a thin slice of VIP Gourmet Chicken, and a raw egg. I mix this all together. You can also add small amounts of boiled rice, or pasta, raw grated carrot or leave over cold meat you may have if you which to add variety. Mixing the dry food and wet food together is my way of helping with teeth care, as the Yorkshire’s and Chihuahua’s tend to have bad teeth hygiene if not looked after. So the more they have to chew the better.
I like to use the guideline for increasing your pups food as she or he grows from the Advance website and I have found it a great one for a guidelines to what is needed for their age and a guide to not over feeding. This is another reason why I leave a bowl of dry food out for them during the day to gaze so they know food is there and it doesn’t become a ‘see food and guts it thing’. The other reason is that both Chihuahua’s and Yorkshire’s blood sugar levels can drop easily if not feed on a regular basic.
I work it on the 3kg adult dog scale, as this is the higher end for an adult dogs weight, as your pup grows.
Here is a link to this website scale for daily food intake for the appropriate age as your pup grows.
Please remember if you have any question I am here to help so just give me a call or send and email...
I love to help. Xxx
( My go to for health)
There is one other thing I like to have on hand and keep in the refrigerator is a tube of Nutrigel.
It provides extra energy, vitamins and minerals, and is an Appetite stimulant. You can buy small tube from your vet to have on hand if you pup is feeling poorly or in hot warmth, or very active and looks like she need a boost of energy. You only need a very small amount and I put it on my index finger and like her lick it off. You only need this repeated about 3 or 4 times on you finger. It is a great go to if you think they needs a little boost.
Nutrigel. I would buy this from the Vet as a 200gr tube would last you and your pup a life time plus.. The vet can sell it to you in smaller quantity.
Links to the Produce your fur babe as been on while growing up at Guinchilar Kennels.
Purina Supercoat Puppy with Real Chicken for Small Breeds
Advance Puppy Plus Rehydratable for Small Breed
Your pup as been potty trained on this potty tray and you can buy them at this link.
I keep fresh water and dry food out for them all day. As they are a small breed it is important for them to have food out during the day as their blood sugar levels can drop easily..
“OPTIMUM®” I have found to be another very good product and my dogs love it, it is high in nutrition so they need less of it (which means they poo less). Because of this high grade food their coats and general wellbeing are in excellent condition. I think with Optimum you can strike a happy medium between nutrition and cost.
The Dry and Wet Can: “Puppies grow very rapidly and require a different diet to adult and mature dogs. In fact, in just 12 months they can grow as much as a human does in 12 years. A diet that is high in energy and nutrients that supports rapid growth is essential. OPTIMUM® Puppy’s formulated with higher levels of protein for muscle development and calcium for strong teeth and bones. OPTIMUM® Puppy also contains colostrums (in dry product) to help strengthen the gastrointestinal health during the critical growth stages of the first 12 months. It is highly digestible for even the smallest, sensitive stomachs.” (quoted from the Optimum website). http://www.optimumpet.com.au/
Your little pups main socialisation period is between 4 and 16 weeks of age.
During that time your puppy is very impressionable to social influences. If it has good experiences with men, women, children, cats, other dogs, etc., it is likely to accept them throughout life.
If the experiences are absent or unpleasant, it may become apprehensive or adverse to them. Therefore, during the period of socialisation, I encourage you to expose your little pup to your life style and as many types of social events and influences as possible.
However since the puppy will not have built up a complete immunity from the vaccination program until approximately 14 weeks of age, you have the dilemma of endeavouring to socialise him/her on the one hand and then trying to isolate him/her from potentially harmful diseases.
The aim is to strike a balance and obviously not expose him/ her to the risk of disease but at the same time ensure he/she receives as much socialisation as possible, both with people and other animals.
“Fun Time for All the Family”
Stimulating play is important during the first weeks and early months.
Stalking and pouncing are important play behaviours in your pups development and are necessary for proper muscular development.
If given ample thingamajigs (toy’s) for this behaviour, your puppy will be less likely to use family members for these activities. Such as ‘chewing socks with the toes still inside’, chewing fingers, (which is cute when they are still tiny but remember the do grow up). So start off the way you want your pup to behave as an adult.
When I refer to thingamajigs above as toy’s, this can be all most anything, from old clean pieces of rag with 4 or 5 knots tied in a line, to crocheted lengths of wool with a small loop on the end, and cardboard toilet rolls (with toilet paper off) these are just some ideas for toys that will amuse your pup for hours.
It doesn’t have to be an expensive toy, just make sure they are safe, just as you would for a small baby. Ensure you avoid toys with any small pieces which your pup could swallow, and choke on.
When looking to buy toys, the best are light weight, movable and colourful. They love little stuffed puppies, it stops them in their tracks for just a minute with a look of “Hay! Is that a new Kid on the Block?”, so cute!!
Microchip Subscription Form,
a 2 step process.
All pup's will be Microchipped once turning 8 weeks old. When your little 'Forever Fur-Babe' is ready to leave our home your pup will come with his/her Microchip Subscription Form filled in.
Step One :- Please check that the information is current and correct.
Step Two :- You need to post this form to the 'Central Animal Records Australia'. You will find their address at the top left hand corner of the form.
Once this is received and processed you will be sent an offical copy of your pups microchipping record. Please insure to keep this with your pups paperwork for save keeping.
If at anytime you need to change your pups details you can register online at :- www.car.com.au
These are vital to prevent deadly diseases such as Parvovirus, (still seen regularly throughout Australia) Distemper, Hepatitis and Kennel Cough.
By the time you receive your little Fur Babe your pup will have been vaccinated with a C3 Vaccination. Your pups vaccinations will be show on the Vaccination Card, which has comes from the Vet who has seen your pup since birth.
The date of the next vaccination, (C5) will be shown on the same card.
Your pup will only have built up immunities 2 weeks after his/her C5 so be careful where you take him/her.
Puppies usually have a course of three vaccinations, normally given 4 weeks apart:
Adult dogs require an annual vaccination booster for life. Your vet clinic will send you a reminder a few weeks before your dog is due for their yearly booster.
Please speak with your Vet about Vaccinations.
The link below is a good one for reading up on what you are Vaccinating for and why.
Worming your Pup
Dogs need to be wormed regularly to remove parasitic worms that live in the intestine. Puppies should be treated for roundworm and hookworm every two weeks until three months of age, using drops or tablets.
After this, all dogs should be treated for roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and tapeworm once every three months. Puppies should be wormed at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 12 weeks of age, and then every three months for life with an all-wormer.
It is important to remember worming is different in each state. . I recommend consulting your vet to discuss a treatment regime best suited to your puppy and the area and state you live.
I have been worming your fur babe with drops called Troy Puppy and Kitten worm syrup, every two weeks. From the time your pup arrives at their Forever Family they will be ready to be wormed every three months.
My Tip :- I have always wormed my dogs on the first of the month at the change of each season ie. Summer, Autumn , Spring, Winter. It just makes it easier to remember. I buy my tablets for each quarter from my vet, as they will sell them to you by a single tablet according to the weight of you pup.
Fleas and ticks are most prevalent during the warmer months and a combination of products is usually required to treat them. Your vet can recommend the most suitable approach for your situation. Remember to treat not only the adult fleas visible on the dog and any other pets, but also the flea larvae and eggs in the surrounding environment. If you live in an area where ticks are a problem, your dog should be checked daily throughout the summer. If you find a tick, consult your vet immediately for advice.
It is very important to teach your little pup at a young age to accept and enjoy being groomed.
All our “Tiny Paw’s” from the first week are put on their backs on my lap. I rub under their neck, their little paws are massaged, their eye’s wiped each morning, and they are brushed with a small soft brush all over there back’s and belly. At 4weeks their nail’s are cut and the daily routine continued. By the time they are 6weeks old it is time for their first bath, complete with shampoo and a blow-dry to finish. After this time I will then shampoo and blow-dry each pup weekly.
From this time (6wks) onwards, I wipe their eyes each morning, and brush their coat daily.
Trimming of hair around the anus for cleanliness is important when you see it getting long.
Trim nails, very 2nd week. While they are so little I sit with them at night with the nail clippers. This helps for the pup to get used to seeing clippers in my hand and around their feet I always have a puppy comb or brush near my chair at night for night time cuddles and grooming.
Hint: I have had a blow dryer turned on near them a few time a week before I use it on them, so they get use to the noise. But I would have to say that they will still need a lot of treat’s and cuddles around the blow dryer.
Note: Never leave your little one wet after a shampoo, always blow dry, as they are a small breed their body tempter and drop vert quickly.
Trimming your puppy's claws in an important part of maintaining their health and well being.
Excessively long claws can be painful for your dog to walk on and can even cause it to slip on smooth surfaces such as floorboards or tiles. Or even the deck of a boat . Heeeee!!
Similar to grooming, trimming your pup's claws can be a great opportunity to spend time together and, if done carefully, your puppy will learn to love these sessions.
Special dog nail clippers are available from most pet stores so you can trim your puppy's claws at home (for a smaller dog, use cat nail scissors). If your puppy has lighter coloured claws, you should be able to see the pink quick inside.
Try to cut the tip of the claw, being careful not to cut the quick. If your puppy has darker claws and you can't see the quick, just clip small bits at a time. As you approach the quick, the dry, flaky center of the claw will appear darker and shiny. I have found if you put the claw over your index finger and only clip the bit that lays over the finger then this is usually all you need to remove. If you don't feel confident clipping the claws yourself, get your vet or a professional groomer to show you how.
Hint: If in doubt when trimming your pups nails, then please consult your Vet and they will show you exactly how to trim them. Alternatively the Vet can trim them for you at a very reasonable rate.
Similar to people, puppies begin life with one set of teeth, lose them and grow a second and final set that remains with them for life.
Most puppies start to lose their 'milk' or 'deciduous teeth' at four to five months old.
Permanent adult teeth replace the milk teeth. This process is usually complete by seven months of age, although there are variations among breeds. Any deciduous teeth that are not shed naturally can damage the permanent teeth so it is a good idea to talk to your vet about having these removed.
As with babies, the teething period can be a difficult time for both of you. Your puppy may drool and be grouchy and will want to chew on anything in sight to relieve the discomfort, but remember the teething period is a natural and temporary stage in its life.
The most effective way to help keep your puppy's teeth in good condition is to encourage them to chew. Giving your puppy something to chew on not only helps strengthen their teeth, it also helps brush away any build-up of plaque and tartar, which, if left untreated, can cause gum disease.
Most Pet stores and Vet clinics stock products that encourage chewing and are specifically designed to reduce plaque and help to freshen breath. Some pet outlets even stock special toothbrushes and toothpaste to help keep your puppy's teeth sparkling and white. Do not use human toothpaste, as the fluoride can be toxic and the foaming agents can cause gastritis.
If you are concerned about the condition of your puppy's teeth, talk to your vet who can check for signs of gum disease and recommend a suitable treatment.
Training A New Puppy
Responsible ownership involves having a well-trained dog and this training should be commenced as soon as your “Tiny Paw’s” becomes a new member of your family. (On the first day of this little ones arrival).
Remember no matter how cute keep in your mind “Start of how you want your pup to act when its an adult.
Puppies are continuously learning, from the moment their eyes are open and as a responsible breeder I have ensure that elements of training has commenced from the time this little ones could walk.
This is largely to prepare them for the day they packs their bags and leave for their “Forever New Family”. Remember training is not some formal process but should occur at all times when you are with your pup.
Thus puppies should be socialised. They should be handled by family members and strangers as soon as possible and then be introduced to other dogs, preferably to puppies, as soon as their vaccination program allows.
Basic training of a puppy is not a very difficult task provided that certain simple rules are followed.
1) Keep the tasks simple and only go one step at a time
2) Treat sounds and words as commands and not sentences
3) When trying to program the puppy to respond to your command, avoid distractions and competing activities (for example you will never get a puppy to learn to walk round the garden on a collar and lead if Aunt Emma is playing ball with her mother in another part of the garden)
4) Be effusive with your praise and don’t be afraid to use food rewards.
5) Ignore failures and certainly do not punish your puppy
6) Be consistent and this applies to all members of the family.
Hint: Ignore the bad and reward the good when it comes to training
House training your little puppy requires patience and perseverance.
Remember in the first few days and weeks after arriving to a new home, everything is different.
Your puppies thought’s will most likely be that, puppy pad’s aren’t in the same place, and were is the front door. It will be confusing for them, so remember puppy’s are like babies they can’t talk to tell you it is potty time.
All of my puppies are kept in a playpen with a clean puppy pad, food, water and a comfortable bed at the other end of the playpen. The puppy sleeps in this area and when I have to go out, I leave the pup’s confined to the playpen.
If you don’t have a playpen area, the bathroom or laundry for when you go out would work. It just needs to be a place that the pup feels safe and is familiar with. You also need peace of mind when you are away for the home.
As soon as puppy wakes up I take them outside or to the puppy pad (if the weather is bad, which happens quite a lot here in Tasmania), or to the area I want them to use as their toilet.
I also take puppy to this area after meals and reward puppy with heaps of cuddles and by telling he/she how clever and good he/she is, when they have done the right thing. This takes a lot of patience and you must persevere, but doing this right in the first few weeks will pay off in the long term.
If you take the time to watch your pup you will be able to tell the difference between the head when there are sniffing to do a wee and the other business. It is very different to a sniff for food or just sniff’n around and being nosey!
But remember “Accidents Do and Will Happen”.
Hint: Do not smack your puppy or attempt to run his/her nose in the accident.
Things to remember when toilet training are;
Immediately take puppy to the “potty” area, if you notice sniffing or about to squat
Clean up the accident immediately and ensure there is no lingering smells or puppy will use this area again and again
If your puppy has been using a rug or newspaper you can place either item in the place outside you want your pup to use as the potty area (the smell will help the puppy associate this area with going to the toilet)
Another helpful item to use when potty training your new baby. Is the Pee Wee (not sure on the name, depends on the brand). These are available from a lot of pet shops and already smell to the puppy like urine. Place one of these where you want puppy to use as the potty place and the smell from the pads will encourage the puppy to use the pad.
A couple of other methods you may like to try are Doggy Litters and Crate Training. (you can also find out more on these methods by just going on the internet and typing in the methods)
Links:- http://www.optimumpet.com.au http://www.advancedpetnutrition.com.au/product.aspx http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/chihuahua.htm
Remember, everyone's lifestyle is different so try and find a method that works for your and your family.
Please see the following pages, for some helpful command/training tips for your pup. All information provided on the following pages was sourced from the OPTIMUM® PHD (Pet Health Drive) section on the following OPTIMUM® website.
Hint: Once you have dried an accident, pat the area with some white vinegar, this will help remove the smell, and deter your pup from using the same area again and again.
• Your dog should heel nicely on your left side.
• Whether you bought your dog to show or as a beloved pet, it is
always a pleasure to walk a well-trained dog. •
Tell the dog to "heel" firmly when they pull and give a short sharp tug on the lead gently pulling the dog backwards to where he should be.
Do not take your dog for a walk with a cat collar on, some people like to use these types of collars for very small toy dogs, they are very dangerous as they have an elastic bit in them which stretches if a lead is attached to the collar. If this happens, you could lose your precious pet on the road.
Once you have found a suitable collar for the puppy, let him wear this night and day for about a week or so (it is better to start training at six weeks of age - but any age before 12 weeks is fine). After this week, attach a lead to the collar and let him drag this around for a while until he gets use to it. Then attempt to pick it up and follow him. When he is use to you following him, attempt to pull him your way. Some pups really resist this and will cry or "buck" like a bronco! My advice is to ignore them and keep going with your training. Don't give in! Always make out you are going somewhere, don't wander needlessly around. Call the pups name and even offer some food for him to follow. They will eventually lead and enjoy walks, but it is going to take some time.
• A show dog needs to lead very well to get the attention of a judge so make sure he is trained up before you enter a show. Some pups when you buy them from the breeder have not been trained. You will most likely have to start at "square one" and do some formal training first. Start as soon as you get the puppy. Firstly, tie a training collar around its neck.
• A ribbon or bit of stocking or a cat collar cut down that fits the pup, will do nicely.
• Make sure it is not so loose it drops off his neck or not so tight it chokes him. You should be able to fit your finger under it. This "made-up" training collar will do for now, but for the proper collar and lead, the best quality should be purchased and the most suitable is a leather brand as it is long lasting, durable and strong. Of course, for a show dog, you need a show lead which can be purchased at a business trading at a Dog show. I do not recommend to use a "show lead" as a lead to walk a pet, these have only a small clip to keep your pet in place and these can always slip and your pet will get loose. A separate collar and lead set is a better choice for safety reasons around streets and strange places where your pet is likely to get a bit frightened and pull on the lead.
Be patient in training dogs and remember to reward your puppy or dog when he has done right. This can be adapted for a much older dog as it is not true the phrase "an old dog can't learn new tricks". Any age can learn with the right training. Good luck
The most important thing of all is to have fun playing and watching your new family member grow up and enjoy your life together.
‘For they will leave a footprint in your heart that will last a lifetime of making memories together!’ Xx